Growing up in an Indo-Caribbean household in Guyana I was
never a stranger to desserts using rice as a starch base. In fact, if I am
being completely honest, combining rice with milk and sugar wasn’t uncommon as
a quick and cheap dessert fix. In a strange way, limited resources allows one to enjoy the flavor
foundations of a dish and sometimes inspires creative modification not heavily
influenced by a repetitive experience of the intended finished product. As you
no doubt know to be true of food, necessity often breeds creativity. I suppose
in much the way that an apple pie induces sentimental reaction in many Americans,
anything that combines rice with sweetened milk does the trick for me.
The more complex “kheer” or Indian rice pudding was and is a prominent
part of the meal accompanying Hindu religious ceremonies. Sort of a grand
finale after enjoying many strongly flavored and spicy curries, the rich,
sweet, dense kheer would neutralize the lingering effects of spice on the palate
resulting from the curry main course. The kheer, although delicious, often
tastes of rice that is immensely overcooked. This version of the dish attempts
to move away from that.
The idea behind this dish (quantities given here for 4
people) is to combine milk, cream (equal volumes to the milk) and rice (150g to
300ml milk) to slowly simmer and not overcook. Whisked sweetened egg yolks (1
egg yolk and 40 grams of sugar to every 50 ml of milk) and are then combined
with the rice to lend creamy, light, fluffy, and sweet components to the dish. You
might want to add a little spiced rum at this point, to add some complexity reminiscent
of many apple cocktails. Of course, if this dish is created for religious
purposes, you can skip this step. Finally, caramelized apple (cooked in hot
caramel for 5 minutes) is able to contribute the much neglected textural
contrast lacking in many versions of the dish, bringing us closer to perfect
balance. The finished product is visually stunning and is sure to appeal to most
palates.
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